I've heard you can thin it down with lacquer thinner, might help get it in those gaps? I haven't tried it as I don't use lacquer thinner, the fumes do me in.

Yeah, I've used to that and other times Milliput, they work really great for some situations. The Vallejo is a pretty quick option and actually dries really hard in the gaps.

I've seen some videos were guys would take the two-party epoxy and roll it out making some very thin wires or very flat for things like seatbelts, I never have been able to do that, I suppose it takes practice 

Wow! 

That is really going to take a lot of filling and sanding, I'd probably be using some imaginative language, you know, to encourage the parts to go together properly 

Do you have any Vallejo acrylic filler? If not, it comes in a tube with a needle nose applicator that can be unscrewed if you need to put more out quickly. It's never feathered real well for me, but I do use it to fill in gaps by sticking a needle nose against the gap at a sharp angle and squeezing it in until a little comes out and then moving it back a little and repeating the length of the gap. It can then be cleaned up with a knife or wet Q-tip so you don't have to sand it.

That came out very nice! I have one of these old Monogram kits and they really do take a lot of work, but you've shown how nice they can turn out.

Wow, looking good, hard to tell it's one of those old Monogram kits 

And here I thought I was the only one that did operator error  

That's looking great, especially for an old Monogram! They were great kits in their day, but are a bit long in the tooth now although with some work, can still be really good.

Because of health issues, I only use acrylics, I have some from a few different manufacturers and Future helps a lot with them to make the finished harder since acrylic and scratch so easily and it seems to help it flow. Sometimes I will even use Future with some paint in it as a type of primer, not as a sanding primer, just to give everything a similar coloring and sometimes it seems to help the acrylic stick a bit better. Sometimes I also use gesso as a primer. I also use Future with baby powder as a filler, you can adjust its thickness, I will make it kind of thin as a sanding sealer for my balsa models. Sometimes I will add some acrylic paint, makes it easier when you're sanding as it will look darker and the areas you sand will look lighter so it's easy to find low spots, I change colors for guide coats.

I don't do airbrushing but I have a simple one I would like to start using for some things. I found a great thinner for acrylics is windshield wiper fluid, the really cheap stuff, you don't want the stuff that makes the rain bead up. Works great with craft acrylics. I've watched videos of a guy that airbrushes craft acrylics and he thins it with windshield washer fluid, some colors are a bit thicker than others, but generally he does a ratio of around 50/50.

Yours is the first conversion I've seen with this nose, looks to be quite a challenge to get it to fit properly, but it will look great when done.

Cool markings, I haven't seen this version before.

I have the Eagle Strike decals for X 44 that has the same rudder art, I'm going to do my Amtech F in those markings.

Looks great and I love the weathering, subtle but convincing, so many people go way overboard with it.

Did you use aftermarket seats over did they come with the kit?

Haven't heard of PBS American before? We get BBC America, but it's on cable, used to have a lot of British shows, now it seems to be mainly Star Trek and some nature shows. Haven't heard of Plane Resurrection before, I'll have to keep a lookout for it.

Here are some of the other plans John drew up that are available for a free download.

https://outerzone.co.uk/search/results.asp?keyword=John%20Bell