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 91 
 on: July 14, 2020, 09:52:11 PM 
Started by P-40 Admin - Last post by Vince_M
I went to see the P-38 that was dug out of the ice in Greenland.
This was during its rebuild in Middlesboro, Kentucky.
I looked really hard at the "US ARMY" letters and it appeared to be a very, very dark blue.
My two cents anyway...

 92 
 on: July 14, 2020, 11:26:08 AM 
Started by P-40 Admin - Last post by Mark Joyce
This is one of many questions in modeling that seems to pop up rather frequently.  My understanding is, as Dana Bell says in his reply, that the letters are blue so that's what I go with...but since decal manufacturers have done both blue and black everyone can choose which color they prefer.

 93 
 on: July 13, 2020, 04:23:32 PM 
Started by P-40 Admin - Last post by P-40 Admin
https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/85862-us-army-letters-color-proof/&tab=comments#comment-1217518

 94 
 on: July 07, 2020, 03:45:06 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by Vince_M
Scribing lines through various materials (resin, putty, etc) is like sorcery.
It is very hard to get perfect unless it is all same material.  Scribing resin is just harder than styrene anyway.
So don't feel bad.  You are doing fine.

 95 
 on: July 03, 2020, 11:08:11 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by Mark Joyce
With my pathetic scribing skills, if I was in charge of the transcontinental railroad it would turn out like this Shocked:

That being said, I applied a coat of primer, tried fixing the number of flaws, and then applied another primer coat. It's far from perfect with some detail being lost and a couple of areas that might need to be addressed, but aside from my feeble attempts at trying to scribe new panel lines or rescribe some that were lost in my puttying and sanding endeavor, the end result might be something that I can live with:


 96 
 on: June 30, 2020, 10:47:24 PM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by Mark Joyce
I've heard you can thin it down with lacquer thinner, might help get it in those gaps? I haven't tried it as I don't use lacquer thinner, the fumes do me in.
Are you referring to Tamiya putty?  If so, I've not tried to thin it.  However, I do have to thin Mr. Surfacer 500 with lacquer thinner, as it thickens up over time.

 97 
 on: June 29, 2020, 05:17:38 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by P-40 Admin
I've heard you can thin it down with lacquer thinner, might help get it in those gaps? I haven't tried it as I don't use lacquer thinner, the fumes do me in.

 98 
 on: June 27, 2020, 08:54:39 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by Mark Joyce
Thanks to both of you for the suggestions. Of the products you mention I've only used Milliput, and as I previously mentioned mine dried up long ago.

I decided to go with my old standby, Tamiya putty. I'm working slowly on it with the application of numerous thin layers, trying to be patient and to avoid frustration, and it appears I may actually be making some productive progress. The port side, which is the worse of the two, is almost done and I'll do some touch-ups with Mr. Surfacer prior to a primer coat.  Although it will be far from perfect and some details such as rivets and fasteners will be lost (they are quite subdued on the resin nose as it is), I've been able to re-scribe most panel lines so hope the end result will be presentable.

 99 
 on: June 26, 2020, 06:49:39 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by P-40 Admin
Yeah, I've used to that and other times Milliput, they work really great for some situations. The Vallejo is a pretty quick option and actually dries really hard in the gaps.

I've seen some videos were guys would take the two-party epoxy and roll it out making some very thin wires or very flat for things like seatbelts, I never have been able to do that, I suppose it takes practice  Wink

 100 
 on: June 26, 2020, 03:33:49 AM 
Started by Mark Joyce - Last post by Vince_M
Aves two part putty is really good too.

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