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Author Topic: 1:48 Mauve P-40N "Lope's Hope"  (Read 63124 times)
Vince_M
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« Reply #60 on: February 28, 2019, 10:17:00 PM »

Mark, I had the neutral gray masked off and managed to save it.
However, I rubbed the OD off with windex and a little bit seeped under the tape.  Not too much so I will have to carefully touch up.
So, you win some you lose some, I guess.
I think the paint is looking ok...  I'd give myself a "B" right now.
Sadly the rivet detail I added looks like it is almost completely obscured by the paint layers...at least on the top side.
It was not deep enough.  However, if this was a natural metal project I think those rivets would look super.
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Vince_M
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« Reply #61 on: March 01, 2019, 12:02:03 PM »

Boy do I get tired of masking...



I had a 35 year old bottle of Model Master Medium Green but did not trust it.
I used Vallejo US Dark Green instead thus staying acrylic.
The strange thing is it seems to match my old medium green so I wonder...

Check it out:


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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #62 on: March 01, 2019, 12:56:36 PM »

Although Iím color blind (which explains why I may never revert to Tamiya paints which require so much mixing and often refer to my wife for color choices) I think your finish looks great, Vince.  I canít spot any issues with your repainting and I feel your green splotches are much better than the ones I recently did on my P-40, which donít stand out much from the OD. I also hate masking, especially following my recent issues with the AMtech P-40F!
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Vince_M
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« Reply #63 on: March 02, 2019, 04:05:10 AM »

Thanks, Mark.
The OD has some white added to fade or "scale effect" the look of it.
Also there is a pre-shade coat of Vallejo "field drab" underneath.  I mottled this on over the white primer along with some straight OD.
The top coat of faded OD has about 50% Future mixed with it to make the pre-shade show through more.  Also, the Future makes it very durable for handling and masking.
I was surprised to lose my rivet detail because Future and acrylics usually dry so tight that even some scratches show through.  Perhaps I'm just putting all my coats on just a bit too heavy.
Airbrushing is really something that just takes tons of experience, doesn't it?
Oh well, it's not the end of the world that the rivet detail was lost.
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Vince_M
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« Reply #64 on: March 05, 2019, 01:23:29 AM »

Well, it's not going to be done in time for the show Saturday...

I had a relative come to visit this past weekend and then another friend of my wife wanted to come visit as a surprise on Sunday.
So I spent the whole last weekend socializing.
It didn't matter because I was cleaning my airbrush Friday and was using Lacquer Thinner.
It must have been incompatible with a small rubber O-ring on the tip because that O-ring broke right off.
That little O-ring made a huge difference on the spray pattern and it would not work properly at all.
My old Badger 350 won't spray Future properly so that is not a good backup.
I ordered a new part but it won't be here until Friday.
So....the pressure is off.

I guess that is okay because I can finish it properly without being rushed....
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #65 on: March 05, 2019, 11:41:49 AM »

Sorry it won't be finished in time for the contest, but it's probably for the best.   It's when I'm rushed that I make my greatest mistakes.

Regarding airbrushes, I learned long ago, from damaging needle tips to destroying o-rings in lacquer thinner, that I need to have spares parts on hand. I can't count how many needles I've gone through over the years from hitting the tip on something while spraying or cleaning.
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Vince_M
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« Reply #66 on: March 07, 2019, 10:45:29 PM »

A lot of P-40N did not have the "Ring and Bead" sight installed on the upper cowling, by that time in the war.
Many had just the "bead" and not the "ring".
I wanted to do the Ring and bead just because I have the photoetch parts and I think it looks interesting.
Should I be more accurate and just do the "bead" only?

Hmmmmm
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #67 on: March 07, 2019, 11:51:25 PM »

"Lopes Hope" likely was the same as most, if not all, other 23rd FG P-40Ns and only had the 'bead', and since it seems you've been striving for accuracy I would go with only that, Vince.  Just my two cents....
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Vince_M
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« Reply #68 on: March 08, 2019, 01:11:09 AM »

Yeah, that is good advice.  I should default back to accuracy.

I saw that a lot of the Merlin P-40s sometimes had no ring or bead at all!
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Vince_M
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« Reply #69 on: March 11, 2019, 11:45:59 PM »

I'm completely intimidated putting on the sharkmouth decals.
If there are fit issues I won't be able to do anything about it.


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« Reply #70 on: March 12, 2019, 06:07:52 AM »

Looking really good so far!

I was cleaning out a bunch of old magazines and one of them had a technique instead of using a candle, holding the plastic up to a lightbulb to soften the plastic and then bending it or pulling it over a plug, I had never thought of that before.

I had problems with Squadron putty doing that in the past, I've been using Bondo spot glazing putty for a while which is good, but it always stays somewhat soft so if it gets bumped with something a little sharp, it can gouge it a bit. I remembered my U-control & R/C days, I would use dope & talcum powder to make a sanding sealer. Health issues have had me move away from solvent-based products as much as I can, (I still use Bondo once in a while, but it can cause issues), so I started using Future with baby powder, you can make it as thin or as thick as you want by altering the baby powder, sometimes I will add a little bit of acrylic paint to give it a little bit of color to make it easier for sanding. It sands just as easy as Future does and smells nice, ultimately is harder than the Bondo as well. Feathers beautifully and sticks well. Also, when I am sanding, it acts like its own guide coat, at least with some acrylic paint added, it will look darker and as you sand it, the higher areas will be a lighter color as they get sanded down.
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #71 on: March 12, 2019, 09:07:44 AM »

I'm completely intimidated putting on the sharkmouth decals.
If there are fit issues I won't be able to do anything about it.

I feel the same way about those sharkmouths too, Vince, but have found that the decal brand can make a lot of difference in how they fit and lay down.  Which manufacturer are you using for 'Lope's Hope?'

I also meant to ask if you had any problems with the Master barrels.  I just ordered a couple of sets, one in 72nd scale for the Academy P-40N I'm currently working on.  They won't arrive for perhaps two weeks, and I figured I would get a head start on them by cutting off the kit barrels first then gluing the upper and lower wing halves together to knock out the seam between them.
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Vince_M
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« Reply #72 on: March 12, 2019, 12:16:05 PM »

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

The decals are Eagle Strike and are designed for AMTor Mauve. So I should be okay if Iím patient and careful.

The Master guns are wonderful. Of course the hardest part is getting six holes in just the right spots on a narrow leading edge. That is a mouthful and an understatement
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Vince_M
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« Reply #73 on: March 14, 2019, 09:29:03 PM »


Well, why not?

I have put so much into this project why not put on some stencil decals to make it more accurate.
This is the old "Tally-Ho!" sheet and it is pretty good.
The first ones I applied are silvering a lot though...


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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #74 on: March 14, 2019, 11:21:02 PM »

I've had mixed results with Tally Ho decals, Vince, and they wouldn't be my first choice if something else was available.  I'm still bummed about how the nose art for one of my P-40s silvered, here:
http://www.p40warhawk.com/smf/index.php?topic=262.0
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