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Author Topic: Hasegawa 1/48th P-40N-1 Finished!  (Read 1998 times)
Mark Joyce
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« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2020, 12:36:47 PM »

Success! After much trepidation I finally decided I had to bite the bullet and give the 48th scale decals a go.  Based on my failure with the 72nd scale versions, I tested a couple of spare decals off the big-scale sheet and, taking the advice of Paul Boyer over on Hyperscale, rubbed some saliva on a 'test bed' model where the decals were to go.  Saliva apparently has a bit of lubricant in it to aid with placement of the decals.  The decals went on flawlessly, so I moved on to the real deal, slathering with spit the model.  Yes, it sounds gross...but it worked.  I was able to get the decals fairly close to where they ultimately ended up needing to go, but the saliva ensured I was able to move them around a bit to get a fit I was happy with.

Interestingly, I tried the same method on my test bed with another decal from the 72nd sheet, but no luck there.  It stuck firmly in place like my initial Dikam Death skull head.  I can only guess that I got a bad sheet and all the decals on it will react the same way.

The decals didn't lay down perfectly, but nearly so.  I had a couple of bubbles and wrinkles, the latter especially where the decals wrapped around the upper carb intake, so used a sharp knife to prick and slice and had to use 2-3 applications of MicroSol before I was satisfied I could do all I could.  A bit of touch-up with white paint finished things up.

Not too noticeable in the first photo is a white triangle under the chin.  I had forgotten about it but Jean Barbaud came to my rescue again and reminded me of it, allowing me to mask and paint it before I got too farther along in the build.

Apparently Rising Decals didn't know Bob's crewchief's name.  I could have helped out if I had been asked!

Anyways, a bit of a break now before the final weathering.


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Vince_M
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« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2020, 01:45:20 AM »

Super nice, Mark!
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« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2020, 07:45:44 AM »

Those decals look awesome, even more fearsome than the shark mouth. Were they that white on the real ships are you going to tone them down slightly with some pastel chalk or something?
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2020, 02:25:48 AM »

Those decals look awesome, even more fearsome than the shark mouth. Were they that white on the real ships are you going to tone them down slightly with some pastel chalk or something?

Thanks. It's hard to be positive looking at black and white photos, but the skulls seem pretty stark white in color.  That being said, the decals really stand out so I might try to tone them down some as the weathering process progresses. 

For weathering, I've been pretty static in how I've done things for too many years to count.  It's mainly consisted of a panel line wash, using the airbrush for post shading and/or creating some modulation in the paint scheme, and some pastels here and there.  It's about time I try some new techniques (for me, at least) and am giving a go with dot filters and the like on some scrap models.  I've just gave the dot filters a try with so-so results, and have my concerns with using oils over my enamel paints, even with the use of an acrylic clear coat as a barrier between the enamels and oils.  It seems that if I'm over zealous with brushing those dots, as appears to be the proper procedure, that I can too easily start removing the clear coat and have an adverse reaction with the underlying enamel paints.  I don't really want to muck up this model so I might stay with my tried and trusted methods for now!
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2020, 04:28:13 AM »

All finished.  As the minstrel sang to Sir Robin in "Monty Python and the Holy Grail," I "gallantly chickened out" in regards to the weathering and decided to forgo those dot filters, instead relying on my usual weathering methods of the airbrush as well as pastel chalks....maybe oils for next time.  I thought I had things rather nicely done, but the weathering isn't as apparent in the photos as I'd hoped.  Paint chipping and wear was done by a combination of dabbing some matt aluminum paint with a small piece of fabric foam as well as a toothpick, and using a silver Prismacolor pencil.  Aerials were done with Uschi rigging thread instead of my usual stretched sprue.  It worked very well, but I can really use a third hand when attaching those things.

Thanks for looking, and on to the next project.







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Vince_M
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« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2020, 05:51:36 AM »

Looks really great!
I love the paint and weathering as well!!!
 Smiley
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« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2020, 06:29:24 AM »

Looks great and I love the weathering, subtle but convincing, so many people go way overboard with it.

Did you use aftermarket seats over did they come with the kit?
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2020, 07:33:41 AM »

Looks really great!
I love the paint and weathering as well!!!
 Smiley
Thanks Vince. I was trying to emulate the weathering from your 'Lopes Hope' build but didn't quite succeed, at least not on the topside. Case in point, the subtle weathering and streaking on the spinner can't be seen in my photos.
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Mark Joyce
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« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2020, 07:35:43 AM »

Looks great and I love the weathering, subtle but convincing, so many people go way overboard with it.

Did you use aftermarket seats over did they come with the kit?

Thanks. I'm not completely satisfied with the look of the weathering in the photos but it'll do.

It's the kit seat with Eduard photo-etch belts.
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